Experienced Guides and Qualified Instructors

1. This program is a minimum of 27 hours, normally run as three consecutive nine-hour days or day classes with evening sessions.
2. The courses will not exceed a ratio of six students to one current SPI program provider.
3. The maximum number of students on any SPI Program will be twelve.

1. The evaluation is a minimum of 16 hours.
2. The assessment should be run over two days. Candidates that meet the pre-requisites can take the assessment directly, following the course if they desire. Although, this is not recommended.
3. SPI Assessment will not exceed a ratio of six students to one current SPI program provider.
4. The maximum number of students on any SPI Program will be twelve.

The following three-day outline is the standard progression for the SPI Course. Your program may have a different daily schedule, and it is acceptable for program providers to do this as long as the entire curriculum is covered in your course. Program Providers may add to the curriculum but must not omit pieces. They must make it clear when they are teaching outside the curriculum and should not evaluate beyond it.

The course is normally run over three consecutive nine-hour days. But as long as all the curriculum is covered over 27 hours, the course could be reviewed on separate weekends or even as a semester class.

You meet the pre-requisites for the SPI course if you:

• Have a genuine interest in rock climbing and instructing novices on single pitch crags
• Are at least 18 years old at the time of the course
• Have at least 12 months prior climbing experience
• Are an active climber with traditional lead climbing experience (leader placing pro)
• Have lead climbed a minimum of 15 graded traditional rock climbing routes (any grade)
• Are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on a top rope

The prerequisites are absolute minimums and most candidates have way more than the listed requirements. Without having at least this amount of experience, you are unlikely to play a constructive part in the course or be able to make the best use of the training. If you are unsure of your skill levels, we suggest hiring an AMGA/IFMGA certified guide to evaluate and enhance your skills and experience before SPI Program enrollment.

The SPI Assessment is two days in length (minimum of 16 hours of assessment time). It will take place at a single pitch climbing area where there are a selection of traditional lead routes in the 5.6 range and top-roping routes in the 5.8 range.

The assessment will examine all aspects of institutional single pitch climbing that the Single Pitch Instructor may encounter. Day one will look at climbing movement and all aspects of technical systems, from anchoring to assistance skills and general climbing competence.

On day two, the examiner may arrange for volunteer novice clients (non-paying) for the candidates to instruct in a group setting. This is not required but is a great benefit to the assessment process as the examiner can see candidates interact with real novice climbers and the examinees do not have to pretend to teach novice climbers who are actually other participants on the assessment.

The examiners job is to bring out the best in the candidate, and give him or her a comfortable and stress-free assessment. The candidate must show the examiner they have the technical and instructional skills to pass the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor assessment. The SPI Assessment is broken down into four distinct evaluation sessions:

• Climbing Movement
• Technical Skills
• Teaching Ability
• Group Management Skills

Candidates are evaluated by the AMGA marking system categories, namely:

• Risk Management
• Client Care
• Technical Systems
• Application
• Terrain Assessment
• Movement Skills
• Mountain Sense
• Professionalism
• Instructional Technique

In the AMGA SPI Program, the same nine categories are used for the rest of the AMGA assessments in the guide programs. This is for uniformity throughout the AMGA programs as they are all applicable to single pitch instruction and will help the candidate as they move onto higher-level assessments.

The SPI Assessment can be taken directly after the SPI Course if the candidate completed the program and meets the pre-requisites. However, it is highly recommended that the SPI Course candidate takes time practicing and consolidating the skills learned on the course before assessment (6-12 months).

You meet the SPI Assessment prerequisites if:

• You have completed an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course or AMGA Top Rope Site Manager Course.
• You have trad lead climbed a minimum of 40 rock climbing routes. A large number of these should be at 5.6 grade and hopefully on a variety of rock types.
• You are capable of comfortably lead climbing 5.6 traditional routes (leader placing protection). You will demonstrate your leading ability on a variety of paths on the assessment.
• You are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on a top rope.

To gain SPI Certification, candidates must:

• Pass the SPI Assessment
• Hold Current AMGA Membership at Professional Level
• Possess Current First Aid Certification (See SPI Certification First Aid Requirements)

There is no longer an exemption from training. To participate in the AMGA SPI exam, you must first complete the AMGA SPI Course or have previously completed the Top Rope Site Manager Course, which ended in 2007. Please call ahead if you have not completed your SPI course with us.