Winter 2018-2019 is underway despite todays feet of rain and 60 degree temps. As soon as it gets cold it’s going to be all time.

Upcoming Winter Climbing Available Dates:

New Hampshire: 
Jan. 11, 12, 14,25,27, 30,31
Feb. 4-8, 21, 22
March 11, 12

Adirondack Park (Keene Valley Based):
Jan 16

In addition, Matt will be working the Adirondack Mountain Festival, the Mt Washington Valley Ice Fest, and the Munising MI Ice Fest. If you’re going, be sure to say hi!

Here are some photos from this past week in New Hampshire. Conditions were all time! ALL TIME! We spent a day on the Black Dike with Robert, 2 days at Frankenstien, one with Dave, a day doing AMGA stuff at Kinsman, and a guides day at Cannon on Hassig’s Direct.

Happy Holidays from our family to yours! See you soon!

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Between the Hammer and the Anvil

Years ago there was a photo of Rob Frost under the first roof at the crux published in a climbing magazine.  I have met Rob, and he’s a monster when it comes to climbing.  The photo makes the route look pretty damn hard.

The Thor’s Hammer is an ancient Norse symbol. In Norse mythology, Thor is the god of thunder and his hammer, called the Mjölnir,  has the power of lightning. It is also the name of a badass rock climb at East Peak in Central Connecticut. Furious fist jams, big lay backs, physical climbing, and a chimney characterize what is likely the best 5.9 in Connecticut.  That’s a bold statement, but I’ve done almost all of the good ones around here.  Just remember, 5.9 around here can be rowdy.

I hadn’t been on the route in probably 8 years, and I had only done it once. When a subtle change in plans forced a different venue, the questions became “what do you have for big cams in your car?” We had the right posse, the right level of stoke, and almost enough big cams.

As it turns out, it was as challenging as I remembered.  Move quickly, be precise, and avoid the anvil. I can’t wait to go back.


Today’s whip:

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Roger’s Rangers- The Battle on Snowshoes

Each year, Casi and her crew of BIC SUPpers go on a paddle and climb adventure.  So far, we’ve been doing a Connecticut River expedition. Casi paddles a bazillion miles on SUP boards to meet me.  We go climbing over the water, then finish with a few sport routes at Seldon Island. Basically, a three hour tour.

This year, I felt like we needed to up the ante.  I suggested we go to Rogers Rock on Lake George in the Adirondack Park.  After some reconnaissance, Casi agreed that this was going to be the spot.  Since the climbing here is 500 feet tall, and there were six climbers, I recruited my good friend and IFMGA Guide Silas Rossi.  If you know him, you know he’s a stud with sharp wit, and he’s quick to crack a joke- He’d be a perfect fit.

Silas. The 5th Discipline.

We would meet at the Roger’s Rock Boat launch at 0900.  Paddle northwest for a 30 minutes.  Next, a review of systems and gear, and launch.  Silas would climb with Casi, Michelle, and Bronwyn.  I had mixed emotions.  They have always been mine.  I was going to climb with Heather, LouAnn, and Trish.  Turns out they’re pretty cool too.

Rack up. Lead. Build anchors. Manage 600′ of rope. Get after it. 

So, we sent it!  A quick paddle with an overloaded canoe back to the launch, and like that, it was over.  High fives, hugs, and seeds planted for next time!

Crush it like Quint.

Roger’s Rock History:

“The 1758 Battle on Snowshoes occurred on March 13, 1758, during the French and Indian War. It was fought by members of British Ranger companies led by Robert Rogers against French troops and Indians allied to France. The battle took place near Lake George, now in northern New York, but then in the frontier area between the British province of New York and the French province of Canada. The battle was given its name because the British combatants were wearing snowshoes.

Rogers led a band of about 180 rangers and regulars out to scout French positions. The French commander at Fort Carillon had been alerted to their movement, and sent a force consisting mostly of Indians to meet them. In fierce fighting, the British troop was nearly destroyed, with more than 120 casualties. The French believed that Rogers was killed in this action, as he was forced to abandon his regimental jacket, which contained his commission papers, during his escape from the scene.

This battle gave rise to the tale that Rogers escaped capture by sliding 400 feet (120 m) down a rockface to the frozen surface of Lake George. That rock is now known as Rogers Rock or Rogers Slide.” -Wikipedia


Soundtrack: Social Distortion- Bad Luck

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Favorite Things

This last week, I guided YMC route twice, and climbed it three times over 4 days.  It’s so good.

Central Connecticut’s Ragged Mountain’s YMC Route is rated 5.9.  It is about 90 feet tall.

Here are three photos of Laurie and Chelsea on the route.

After this, Carey Corner comes a close second.  I think this route is a fabulous way to work on hand jam skills.

Laurie on Carey Corner, 5.7+

Some will say Carey Corner is 5.8, even 5.9.  I say no way.  Every move might be 5.7.  That’s why it’s so good.  Moderate, physical, fun. Get after it.

We are on the doorstep to October which is the best month to climb here and in the Gunks.  Let book it up and go!

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Whitney-Gilman Ridge

Dave on the Whitney-Gilman Ridge, Cannon Mountain, NH

Dave and I had an awesome day linking the Whitney-Gilman Ridge and the Eaglet Spire last week. Not a bad way to spend a day in exposed places.

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