Mount Washington Valley this week

Here are a few highlights from Ice Fest weekend in New Hampshire. It’s warm now, but thats OK. The ice needs to heal a bit. It should be full throttle in time for the next trip!

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Summit For Someone

For 2019, we are excited to announce that we’ve partnered with the Big City Mountaineers Summit for Someone Program. Our commitment is a fundraiser ‘expedition’ to support under-resourced youth. Monies raised on this trip will support youth on wilderness trips nationwide.

Our trip this year is a Presidential Range Traverse over 3 days in early July. We will hike and scramble the ridge while staying in the beautiful AMC huts along the way. Light packs, great views, alpine terrain and common good shared.

Madison, Adams, Jefferson

My own previous expereinces with Summit for Someone was during a Grand Teton trip in Wyoming in 2017. I was fortunate to climb to the top of the Grand with 3 fine folks.

Grand Teton, 13,770′


Our trip this year, will be less technical, in fact, it’s mostly hiking and some scrambling. It’s a great entry level program for fit hikers who might want to try a 2 night trip.

Here is some beta for those of you less familiar with the Big City Mountaineers and Summit for Someone program.

SFS Impact

                  The Summit for Someone program brings together outdoor enthusiasts from all over the country to combine incredible personal adventures with the opportunity to give back, making such transformative wilderness experiences available to under-resourced youth. All told, Summit for Someone participants generate more than a quarter of a million dollars to support Big City Mountaineers’ youth programs each year.

Here are a few key highlights to celebrate the success that the SFS program has helped to enable over the years:

  • 10,000+ youth in the field with Big City Mountaineers
  • Over 46,000 nights spent by youth under the stars
  • 30 years of field programming (2019 will be our 30th season… happy anniversary, BCM!)
  • Unique 1:1 mentorship model, with one compassionate adult per youth participant on each expedition
  • Data-driven results that demonstrate significant improvement in critical life skills among youth program participants

I plan to have more information coming out throughout the winter regarding this trip. If you are interested in joining us, I am happy to answer some questions, and there is also information here:

https://www.bigcitymountaineers.org/fundraise/summit-for-someone#sfs-presidential-traverse-hut-hut

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UnderWay

Winter 2018-2019 is underway despite todays feet of rain and 60 degree temps. As soon as it gets cold it’s going to be all time.

Upcoming Winter Climbing Available Dates:

New Hampshire: 
Jan. 11, 12, 14,25,27, 30,31
Feb. 4-8, 21, 22
March 11, 12

Adirondack Park (Keene Valley Based):
Jan 16

In addition, Matt will be working the Adirondack Mountain Festival, the Mt Washington Valley Ice Fest, and the Munising MI Ice Fest. If you’re going, be sure to say hi!

Here are some photos from this past week in New Hampshire. Conditions were all time! ALL TIME! We spent a day on the Black Dike with Robert, 2 days at Frankenstien, one with Dave, a day doing AMGA stuff at Kinsman, and a guides day at Cannon on Hassig’s Direct.

Happy Holidays from our family to yours! See you soon!

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Between the Hammer and the Anvil

Years ago there was a photo of Rob Frost under the first roof at the crux published in a climbing magazine.  I have met Rob, and he’s a monster when it comes to climbing.  The photo makes the route look pretty damn hard.

The Thor’s Hammer is an ancient Norse symbol. In Norse mythology, Thor is the god of thunder and his hammer, called the Mjölnir,  has the power of lightning. It is also the name of a badass rock climb at East Peak in Central Connecticut. Furious fist jams, big lay backs, physical climbing, and a chimney characterize what is likely the best 5.9 in Connecticut.  That’s a bold statement, but I’ve done almost all of the good ones around here.  Just remember, 5.9 around here can be rowdy.

I hadn’t been on the route in probably 8 years, and I had only done it once. When a subtle change in plans forced a different venue, the questions became “what do you have for big cams in your car?” We had the right posse, the right level of stoke, and almost enough big cams.

As it turns out, it was as challenging as I remembered.  Move quickly, be precise, and avoid the anvil. I can’t wait to go back.

 

Today’s whip:

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Roger’s Rangers- The Battle on Snowshoes

Each year, Casi and her crew of BIC SUPpers go on a paddle and climb adventure.  So far, we’ve been doing a Connecticut River expedition. Casi paddles a bazillion miles on SUP boards to meet me.  We go climbing over the water, then finish with a few sport routes at Seldon Island. Basically, a three hour tour.

This year, I felt like we needed to up the ante.  I suggested we go to Rogers Rock on Lake George in the Adirondack Park.  After some reconnaissance, Casi agreed that this was going to be the spot.  Since the climbing here is 500 feet tall, and there were six climbers, I recruited my good friend and IFMGA Guide Silas Rossi.  If you know him, you know he’s a stud with sharp wit, and he’s quick to crack a joke- He’d be a perfect fit.

Silas. The 5th Discipline.

We would meet at the Roger’s Rock Boat launch at 0900.  Paddle northwest for a 30 minutes.  Next, a review of systems and gear, and launch.  Silas would climb with Casi, Michelle, and Bronwyn.  I had mixed emotions.  They have always been mine.  I was going to climb with Heather, LouAnn, and Trish.  Turns out they’re pretty cool too.

Rack up. Lead. Build anchors. Manage 600′ of rope. Get after it. 

So, we sent it!  A quick paddle with an overloaded canoe back to the launch, and like that, it was over.  High fives, hugs, and seeds planted for next time!

Crush it like Quint.

Roger’s Rock History:

“The 1758 Battle on Snowshoes occurred on March 13, 1758, during the French and Indian War. It was fought by members of British Ranger companies led by Robert Rogers against French troops and Indians allied to France. The battle took place near Lake George, now in northern New York, but then in the frontier area between the British province of New York and the French province of Canada. The battle was given its name because the British combatants were wearing snowshoes.

Rogers led a band of about 180 rangers and regulars out to scout French positions. The French commander at Fort Carillon had been alerted to their movement, and sent a force consisting mostly of Indians to meet them. In fierce fighting, the British troop was nearly destroyed, with more than 120 casualties. The French believed that Rogers was killed in this action, as he was forced to abandon his regimental jacket, which contained his commission papers, during his escape from the scene.

This battle gave rise to the tale that Rogers escaped capture by sliding 400 feet (120 m) down a rockface to the frozen surface of Lake George. That rock is now known as Rogers Rock or Rogers Slide.” -Wikipedia

 

Soundtrack: Social Distortion- Bad Luck

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