NH Ice

The ice season has begun in northern New England. I spent a couple of days climbing with Chelsea and Eric on Cannon, Frankenstien and Mt Willard over the past 2 1/2 days. Good stuff happening.

A couple of quick notes:

We saw a lot of other parties climbing DIRECTLY under teams higher on routes. With the explosion of social media posts, the number of climbers is increasing without the requisite skills an knowledge. If you climb under other teams, your risk is significantly increased. You will get pounded from above. Climbing under other teams also increases risk to those climbers as they will climb with hesitation. IT IS BETTER TO SIMPLY WAIT YOUR TURN.

There is a significant reset happening during the current 48 hour period, but I am hopeful for a quick rebound wit arctic weather behind this warm front. Things were pretty darn good for the first week of December.

Rear Window has a new redundant anchor made of purple tech cord and a quicklink. Replaced on Sunday 09DEC2019.

Our weekends are pretty much full for the winter, but we have weekday opportunity.

Photos by M. Shove and courtesy of C. Byrd and E. Downing.

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Winter 2019-2020 Begins

As I sit here typing, I realize my feet are wet from shoveling our first real snowstorm. While we didn’t get much accumulation, the water equivalent was pretty high here in Central Connecticut. Dave emailed this morning to say he got 18″ in southern Vermont! jackpot!

Here is an update for the few of you who are paying attention to this: Open Dates.

Thats right, as we know, weekends are tight and a precious commodity around here. I’ve got 2 weekends open. Until mid March. That’s right. Dec 14-15 and Dec 21-22 are the only weekends open for the remainder of the winter. Let’s get you dates booked up and let’s go climbing. These are prime dates to blow the carbon out, climb the Dike, or Pinnacle Gully.

Dave wraps up an early season lap, Fangs out and Blood running.

Sharpen your shovels, tighten your picks, and lace up. It’s fixing to be game on!

Now, someone book these prime weekends!

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What’s in the Pack 2019

If you had to pick the best 4 modern musicians to form the best band since the 1970’s, who would you pick? You’re wrong. This is the line up:

Danny Carey
Adam Jones
Maynard James Keenan
Justin Chancellor


There will be more to this at the end of the post.

Things in my pack changes day to day depending on what I’m up to, but here it is for day rock climbs for right now. It’s basically the same as it ever was.

I like a 40 liter pack I can fit everything into, is reasonably comfortable for carrying 40+lbs, and has easy access. In years past, I’ve normally carried a Cold Cold World Ozone or Valdez. I’ve even been know to use a Hyperlight Ice Pack. Right now, the BD Crag pack is my choice. It doesn’t fit my odd frame too well, but I make it work. It’s got easy top access and a side zipper. I like that.

Shoes: Evolv General, Skyhawk, or Oracle. Approaches get the Evolv Rebel.

Harness: Petzl Sama. Helmet: Sirocco. Metolius ‘Merica Chalkbag. It’s full of the cheap stuff.

Rack:

Nuts: BD Stoppers #4-11, #5 BD micro nut, # 7-9 HB Offset or DMM Offset

Cams: BD C4 .3-#4, double .75 and 1. Metolius TCU 1-4. Sometimes, I carry C3s or mastercams. TCUs and C3s are better on the Traprock.

Draws/Slings: 4 short sport draws, 6 UHMPE should length slings. All with Petzl Ange L biners.

Anchoring: 1 16′ tech cord cordelette, 1 180cm Petzl UHMPE slimng, 1 120cm dynnema sling, 1 48″ 9/16″ nylon sling. I don’t always carry the longer cords on routes, but they are in the pack for trs, etc. I just about always have one with me, but rarely two.

Lockers: 4 Petzl Attache, 1 heavier one for tr-ing= 5 total free lockers. These do not include the ones that make the belay devices function.

Belaying/Rappelling: OR Gloves, 2019 Petzl Reverso (I did the beta testing, it’s awesome) w an AMD S and an older round stock Attache, 2019 Petzl Gri Gri w/ Frieno. Light Locker with a custom Sterling Hollowblock. The BD Pilot is for guests to belay me, w Petzl William locker.

Other random items include sunscreen, lip balm, a whistle for back up comms, phone, InReach if out of range, a fork, Julbo shades, a quicklink, headlamp, rescue knife for going off belay, first aid kit, sam splint, and lastly a Rest Stop II bag. You never know when Greg will have to go.

Ropes: Sterling 9.8mm 60m prototype, and a 10mm 150′ Safety Pro static.

1-2 Liters of water, and a substantial lunch round it out.

So back to the ultimate band: Tool is releasing a new album on August 30, after 13 years. Prepare to descend.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArDMYgUon9ghttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArDMYgUon9g

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March Ice and Alpine

Enjoy the images from the last stand of our winter season

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Winter Range Traverse

This gallery contains 8 photos.

3 day trip done in 2 Daniel, Seth and Jason have been planning this trip for a some time, maybe even 16 months. How managed a weather forecast like the one we got is unknown! We sent our 3 day … Continue reading

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